Bar/cafes and trattorias/restaurants in Barga

If you were to have a look at my itinerary for any trip to Barga, Alpinos features very heavily - almost every day (unless we decide to stay away for the night), has an entry 'Happy Hour at Alpinos'.

Alpinos is the Bar around the corner that has become the official home of the Barga Barflies (us Aussies who are regulars there).

As is the custom in Italy, many locals, around 4pm, do the passeggiata, a social walk around town. Unfortunately, that is our Happy Hour time so we can only watch and admire while we sample the wines and do our bit for the economy.

Alpinos is quite big inside - there is a large room to the right of this picture and a restaurant upstairs.

A lazy summer afternoon at Alpinos.

We all agreed that Alpino's pizza was the best we had tasted in Italy.

Yet another Happy Hour at Alpinos.

We decided to spend a couple of days in Florence instead of just going for the day - lots to see and do, and came back to cold weather, but Alpinos was prepared with their outdoor area and fire.
Called in for Happy Hour of course.

The staff are friendly - some have been there since my first visit, so it is just like 'going home'.

And ... they are used to 'mad Aussies' - Stephen peering through the window giving his signal for 'same again'.

For special occassions we sometimes go to the restaurant upstairs in Alpinos.  This was our last night in Barga in 2011.

As you can see, we probably frequent Alpinos more often than others, maybe because it is closer but we also make sure we do a fair bit of eating in other places as well. 

Barga is 'Cittá Slow' - part of the Slow Food movement so you won't find any 'fast food' places here.  Fresh ingredients are the order of the day and it shows in the beautiful meals you can enjoy here.

These are in no particular order - some serve lunch and dinner and some are bars and/or gelaterias

***

Across the road from Alpinos in the new town is Bar/Gelateria Onesti.   Good coffee and great cakes.

***

Vanda's, it's official name is La Gelateria Di Bartolomei Roberto, is a bar/gelateria in the old town - up via di Mezzo - the 'main street'.  

There is an amazing choice of delicious gelati - all home made.

  Vanda is a wealth of knowledge and is more than happy to let you know what is happening in Barga while you're there.  The gelatos are pretty special here!!

We have met a few famous people in here, including Tom Gabby, the author of The Lisbon Crossing and The Berlin Conspiracy. He was writing The Tehran Conviction when we were there in 2009.

Looks particularly warm and cosy when you peer in on a cold winter's night.

One of the entrances to Vanda's gelateria. The main one is around the corner.

***

I can thoroughly recommend Trattoria da Riccardo, just outside the main gate (Porta Reale or Royal Gate) on via Sasso.  The views from the balcony are breathtaking.

Adele  and the staff are very welcoming and you'll never be disappointed with the food which is the typical, local cuisine of Garfagnana.  The 'special menu' at lunch time gives you a choice of Primo plates, Secondo plates and a quarter litre of house wine for just 10 Euros. I make sure I visit there every trip.

Christmas at Riccardos - Santa was the only one climatised enough to sit on the balcony.

 

Riccardo's ape.

Great for zipping around the streets in the old town.

Danny and his family having fun after a great lunch in 2008/9

Lunch at Riccardo's - October 2011

Joan and Bill 2011 - the views from the balcony are stunning. I couldn't show them to advantage that day as the sun was in the wrong place.

***

Cafe Capretz is on via Borgo, just inside the old town, very close to the townhouse. Under the loggia is great for a coffee, lunch or dinner but from the balcony at the other side,  the view of the mountains over the rooftops is breathtaking, especially at sunset - a perfect backdrop to an excellent meal.  The main restaurant area inside is a perfect place to have a meal on colder days.

View from the balcony.  There are limited seats out here so book if you want to guarantee a table.

A well earned afternoon tea.

***

Just inside the main gate is the Trattoria L'Altana.

The food is delicious and it is very popular so make sure you book a few days in advance for this one, even for lunch.

A great atmosphere combined with local, North Tuscan cuisine. I have to try the fresh pasta with truffle sauce next trip.

***

Another pleasant surprise is Scacciaguai - a restaurant along via di Mezzo - they have a video screen where you can watch the chef preparing your meal in the kitchen (I think that is still there but I didn't get a chance to eat there last time).

Time just goes too quickly when you are in Barga!

***

L'Osteria is right in the centre of the mediaeval town in Piazza Angelio. This Piazza is often the setting for musical events from Blues and Soul, to Classical, Italian traditional, Jazz and Opera.

My favourite meal there is the garfagnana sausage with tuscan beans - yum!

***

If you tripped when you were walking down via Giardino from the townhouse you would land in Bar Moscardini - one of my favourite places to have (you can't really say 'drink' - it is too thick) Italian hot chocolate. 

Hmmmm.  Who's the cold frog?

Is it rude to lick the cup?

Looking from inside Moscardinis up del via Giardino. You can see how close the townhouse is to everything. The fruit shop (outside the dining room window) is just up the lane.

To the right there is a beautiful bakery - fresh bread every day!

***

It would be impossible to show all the wonderful little bars, trattorias and pizzarias that you would find on your wanderings around Barga - both in the new and old town. It's something you need to discover for yourself.

For a small place, Barga has a lot to offer!

The Terrace

The Terrace has always been a favourite spot regardless of the time of year.  The views are wonderful in 3 directions, you get a great view of the Duomo, of Sommocolonia, the mountains and the road leading up to the Main gate and Fosso.

The view of the mountains and Sommocolonia.

The view up to the Duomo

The view across the roof tops towards the main gate of Barga Vecchia

(just past the large dark green tree).

Now with the addition of a full kitchen on the terrace it is even better. The kitchen was there in 2008/9 but it was the middle of winter so we didn't take full advantage of it.

  

Thurza and I weren't coming home without having used it however, so we took books (newly acquired and written by a local author), a bottle of red wine and some nibblies and off we went.

I can't remember, but I suspect I took my overcoat off for the photo - I'm a bit of a 'cold frog'.

We all took advantage of the Terrace on New Year's Eve as well.  We got spectacular views of the fireworks at the Duomo, Sommocolonia and other villages around.  It was very hard to catch it on camera though - obviously need a new one!

New Year's Eve - 2008/9

Me,Tanya, Jayden, Danny, Corby and Thurza.

The best we could do!

2011 was a whole new deal - October, beautiful weather and so we almost 'lived' up on the Terrace.  We had most meals up there - breakfast, lunch when we were there and dinner.  Perfect!

I can't believe I've got that shirt on again!

Breakfast

Dinner on the Terrace

We spent a lot of time up there seeing who could take the best photos.

All in all, the Terrace kitchen was voted a huge success.

Townhouse - 1st Floor

Me at the door of Casa Marchetti

Casa Marchetti, a spacious townhouse built on 3 levels, is situated just off the main street and is close to everything - cafes, bakeries, autotellers, banks, fruit shops, butchers, supermarkets, chemists, jewellers, etc .

It is only about 50 metres to an entrance to medieval Barga.

Tucked away up a quieter cobbled lane but only a short walk to whatever you need.  The back section is over 260 years old and has been renovated to retain its originhal Tuscan style - glazed terracotta floors, open chestnut beamed ceilings, shutters and an open fireplace but with the added bonus of central heating.

The townhouse has been extended to add a sunroom, large bathroom, an open terrace and an internal staircase up to the terrace where you'll find a 2nd kitchen and eating area.  Magic in the warmer months, although I have been known to brave the cold in winter, but only if fortified with a medicinal glass of red wine.

You'll find all the modern conveniences in Casa Marchetti - microwave, gas cooker, electric oven, washing machine, TV, DVD player, etc

The open terrace with a 2nd full kitchen and eating area, bathroom and sunroom are at the front of the photo.
Kitchen, loungeroom, dining room, bedrooms and walk-through study are behind.

A photo from our 2011 trip.  Joan, Debbie and me. Stephen is at one of the terrace windows.

Floor plan showing positions of rooms - not to scale of course.

It doesn't snow all that often in Barga itself so when it does it is pretty special for us Aussies

You enter the house up a short flight of steps, along a balcony and into the large, fully equipped kitchen.  On this floor you have the kitchen, lounge room and dining room.

Cooking area of kitchen

Breakfast table in kitchen and entry to loungeroom

Barga prides itself on supplying fresh produce

The dining room with its new furniture in 2011
The new extendable table came in very handy for the 9 of us!


Look out the dining room window down to street level and there is a wonderful family run fruit and vegetable shop (frutta e verdura). They also sell local produce - cheese, olives, wine etc.

It doesn't get any handier than that! Easy when you forget something - just lean out the dining room window to catch the 'shopper of the day' as they come out and tell them what you forgot.

Jayden, my grandson, is an old hand.  This was his 2nd trip to Barga.

Me playing in the snow below the dining dining room window.
Rain, hail or snow - the Cosiminis have a selection of their vegetables outside on display.

Lunch in Casa Marchetti on my first trip to Barga - 2000
Just one group of my friends who have shared some great times here - Leonie, Joan, Helen, Robyn, me and Elizabeth taking the photo.  We are all 'repeat offenders' and keep coming back time and time again.

The lounge room is quite large and comfortable.

Lounge room with door out to the kitchen on the left.

Lounge room - nothing like the atmosphere of an open fire and Corby, one of my grandsons, loved tending to it.

Nothing beats sitting in front of the roaring fire in winter, after a day exploring, nursing a glass of one of the many wonderful local wines and enjoying good company.

Casa Marchetti is perfect for this.