If you were to have a look at my itinerary for any trip to Barga, Alpinos features very heavily - almost every day (unless we decide to stay away for the night), has an entry 'Happy Hour at Alpinos'.
Alpinos is the Bar around the corner that has become the official home of the Barga Barflies (us Aussies who are regulars there).
As is the custom in Italy, many locals, around 4pm, do the passeggiata, a social walk around town. Unfortunately, that is our Happy Hour time so we can only watch and admire while we sample the wines and do our bit for the economy.
Alpinos is quite big inside - there is a large room to the right of this picture and a restaurant upstairs.
A lazy summer afternoon at Alpinos.
We all agreed that Alpino's pizza was the best we had tasted in Italy.
Yet another Happy Hour at Alpinos.
We decided to spend a couple of days in Florence instead of just going for the day - lots to see and do, and came back to cold weather, but Alpinos was prepared with their outdoor area and fire.
Called in for Happy Hour of course.
Called in for Happy Hour of course.
The staff are friendly - some have been there since my first visit, so it is just like 'going home'.
And ... they are used to 'mad Aussies' - Stephen peering through the window giving his signal for 'same again'.
For special occassions we sometimes go to the restaurant upstairs in Alpinos. This was our last night in Barga in 2011.
As you can see, we probably frequent Alpinos more often than others, maybe because it is closer but we also make sure we do a fair bit of eating in other places as well.
Barga is 'Cittá Slow' - part of the Slow Food movement so you won't find any 'fast food' places here. Fresh ingredients are the order of the day and it shows in the beautiful meals you can enjoy here.
These are in no particular order - some serve lunch and dinner and some are bars and/or gelaterias
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Across the road from Alpinos in the new town is Bar/Gelateria Onesti. Good coffee and great cakes.
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Vanda's, it's official name is La Gelateria Di Bartolomei Roberto, is a bar/gelateria in the old town - up via di Mezzo - the 'main street'.
There is an amazing choice of delicious gelati - all home made.
Vanda is a wealth of knowledge and is more than happy to let you know what is happening in Barga while you're there. The gelatos are pretty special here!!
We have met a few famous people in here, including Tom Gabby, the author of The Lisbon Crossing and The Berlin Conspiracy. He was writing The Tehran Conviction when we were there in 2009.
Looks particularly warm and cosy when you peer in on a cold winter's night.
One of the entrances to Vanda's gelateria. The main one is around the corner.
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I can thoroughly recommend Trattoria da Riccardo, just outside the main gate (Porta Reale or Royal Gate) on via Sasso. The views from the balcony are breathtaking.
Adele and the staff are very welcoming and you'll never be disappointed with the food which is the typical, local cuisine of Garfagnana. The 'special menu' at lunch time gives you a choice of Primo plates, Secondo plates and a quarter litre of house wine for just 10 Euros. I make sure I visit there every trip.
Christmas at Riccardos - Santa was the only one climatised enough to sit on the balcony.
Riccardo's ape.
Great for zipping around the streets in the old town.
Danny and his family having fun after a great lunch in 2008/9
Lunch at Riccardo's - October 2011
Joan and Bill 2011 - the views from the balcony are stunning. I couldn't show them to advantage that day as the sun was in the wrong place.
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View from the balcony. There are limited seats out here so book if you want to guarantee a table.
A well earned afternoon tea.
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Just inside the main gate is the Trattoria L'Altana.
The food is delicious and it is very popular so make sure you book a few days in advance for this one, even for lunch.
A great atmosphere combined with local, North Tuscan cuisine. I have to try the fresh pasta with truffle sauce next trip.
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Another pleasant surprise is Scacciaguai - a restaurant along via di Mezzo - they have a video screen where you can watch the chef preparing your meal in the kitchen (I think that is still there but I didn't get a chance to eat there last time).
Time just goes too quickly when you are in Barga!
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L'Osteria is right in the centre of the mediaeval town in Piazza Angelio. This Piazza is often the setting for musical events from Blues and Soul, to Classical, Italian traditional, Jazz and Opera.
My favourite meal there is the garfagnana sausage with tuscan beans - yum!
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If you tripped when you were walking down via Giardino from the townhouse you would land in Bar Moscardini - one of my favourite places to have (you can't really say 'drink' - it is too thick) Italian hot chocolate.
Hmmmm. Who's the cold frog?
Is it rude to lick the cup?
Looking from inside Moscardinis up del via Giardino. You can see how close the townhouse is to everything. The fruit shop (outside the dining room window) is just up the lane.
To the right there is a beautiful bakery - fresh bread every day!
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It would be impossible to show all the wonderful little bars, trattorias and pizzarias that you would find on your wanderings around Barga - both in the new and old town. It's something you need to discover for yourself.
For a small place, Barga has a lot to offer!
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